Big Damn Travel Post
Oct. 7th, 2007 09:46 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
windemereWell, I figure you already got the post about the England stuff, so I'll just start in Edinburgh on September 17th.
Kate (bless her heart) has recommended MacBackpackers because she did it eight years ago with her sister and loved it. It's a very well organized company that does all different length tours around Scotland. We were booked on the Jump on/Jump off tour. It allows you to get off at any of the hostel stops and stay for as long as you want. It's also bloody cheap. We had already decided (mostly because it was all the time we had) to do 5 days. One days out to Skye, two nights on Skye, and then two days back to Edinburgh.
Day One: First stop is a gorgeous town called Dunkeld. It's small and picturesque and boasts a huge abbey that is half still in use and half ruined. Which is kinda of awesome. It also has a great bakery, apparently. Next up is the requisite distillery stop. This one is Edradour, the smallest (legal) distillery in Scotland. The tour comes complete with whisky tasting (which I never pass up). It's freezing cold and raining, and it's only mid-September, but somehow it doesn't dampen our spirits. On the way to lunch Doug, who is our bus driver, Scottish, and hilariously vulgar, breaks open the bottle of whisky he's bought. Apparently being able to drive, drink, and toast is something bred into the Scottish. We pass the bottle around in the tradition of the clan gatherings of old. It's nice and warming after a cold morning.
We stop for lunch in Pitlochry. It's a small town about half-way to Inverness, and it's beautiful. It also has an amazing fish & chips shop off the main street (not the one on the main street). MacBackpackers owns a hostel here and we drop off and pick up a few people for the next leg.
Then we are off to Ruthven Barracks. An 18th century ruined "fortress" which is pretty much standing except for it's roof. It's high above the plain below (which means walking up) and it's raining, but on our way back down there's a rainbow arching up from nearby and it makes for great pictures. Just before we hit Inverness we stop at Culloden. It's nearly pouring and it is freezing, but I make it half-way out the path anyways. It's not much to look at with low clouds, but even blind you would still be able to feel the place. It's like walking into any other graveyard, except my ancestors died on this field. I can't help but wonder if I would have been willing to do the same, 300 years ago.
We bypass Inverness and head down the south shore of Loch Ness. Apparently, it's always raining here (which could be true, but I know it's not). The water hovers barely above freezing, and I almost work up the courage to jump in. At least I get my feet wet. But four others on the tour are ready and mostly willing. The get the rest of the whisky afterwards.
Tonight we stop in Inverness. Everyone pretty much scatters their own way, but Doug leads a few of us off to a pub for dinner and then on to Blackfriers (apparently the stop to be) for a ceilidh. The pub is small, and there's a lot of people. It takes a bit of coaching, but soon there are TOO many people up dancing. Kate's eager, but it takes quite a bit of encouragement before I get up to dance, and of course I pick the hardest one to do. Still, ceilidhs are an experience not to be missed in Scotland. It won't be our last on the trip.
Day Two: Next morning we're up early and on our way. We stop at Rogie Falls, but don't see any salmon leaping. But the spot is beautiful. The next is Loch Carron, on a high lookout. The clouds are low, so it's not good for pictures, but it's remote and peaceful and beautiful. We make it to the town of Kyleakin on Skye in time for lunch. The town consists mostly of about 5 hostels, three pubs and a smattering of houses. It also boasts the ruins of a castle (closer to a tower). Kate and I brave the rain (sleet) and the rising tide to venture along the very unmarked trail out to the ruins. It's hellish going, the trail disappears and reappears and finally, at the base of the hill the tower stands on, vanishes completely. Instead we clamber over wet rocks and finally make it to the top. It's a great view, even with (or because of) the dark clouds. Finally the risk of the rising tide cutting off our escape sends us scrambling back down. We return to town wet, but unscathed. We decide to treat ourselves to the pub tonight and then retire to an early bed.
Day Three: Today is our full day on Skye. We plan to head up to the northern ends, but when we wake up it's pouring rain and neither of us has an ambition. We spend the day reading, writing and drinking cocoa. Late that afternoon the other hostel guests begin to trickle in. Apparently a windmill feel off a truck 8 miles north of Kyleakin early in the morning and the road has been closed all day. There was no way north without massive delays. It's a good thing we didn't try. But tonight there's a ceilidh at the pub, and so off we trot for drinks and dancing. Kate and I are both rested, and since no one else seems eager to start we set off to encourage the tourists. It's fun as hell, and we dance until we can't any longer.
I think I've fallen in love with this island and can't wait to come back. It's so quiet and peaceful and relaxing. No need to be anywhere or do anything, even the locals take it slow. It's a nice change.
Day Four: Up late, thankfully, we don't leave till after lunch. We have a new bus driver for this leg of the journey. His name is Michael and he's wearing a kilt. Really, he looks like a young Mel Gibson and talks like one too. Our first stop is Eilean Donan Castle. I've been waiting years to see this place. It's the current home of the MacRae's (and the ancestral one too) and the family still spends it's holidays here. It's also the perfect castle, full of hidden chambers and narrow winding staircases. Really, it's awesome. It also makes for great photos (which I have quite a few of).
We stop at Fort William to drop off/pick up again. The Fort (as the Scots call it, because they refuse to remember it was named after William of Orange) is the centre for outdoor activities. From here you can climb Ben Nevis and do pretty much anything outdoorsy. I so have to come back and spend a week here.
Our last stop of the day is Glencoe. The sun is setting and the clouds are low, but there's still enough light to admire the place. Glencoe is one of the most gorgeous sites in Scotland, probably in the world. And even in the pouring rain it's magical. Just before we leave a rainbow arches across the sky. It ends only a few hundred feet from where we stand. Amazing; I've never been this close to a rainbow.
We stop for the night in Oban. It's a seaside/harbour town with a lot to offer. You could spend a week here an never be bored. It also has a dive centre which means I will certainly be back. We walk downtown and look for a place to eat and finally settle on pizza. But the common room is lively and there's plenty of people to talk to. It's a great hostel, even if pretty much everything is upstairs.
Day Five: Last day. Today is castle/kirk/monument viewing. We stop firstly at St Conan's. This church was constructed over the better part of 30 years by ONE MAN for his mother. It's a thing of architectural beauty for sure, and a marvel to think about how it was built. We make a photo stop at Kilchurn church, one of the Campbell castles. It lies in ruins (thankfully) now. But our next stop is the newish Campbell seat, which is huge and ugly and we only browse through the gift shop before leaving.
On our way back to Edinburgh we stop at Stirling. It's a thriving town, and though we miss the castle, we do stop at the Wallace monument. It's a steep (and long) climb up the hill, but from the top you can see all of town, including the castle. Exhausted we take the free bus down and then sit around for 45 minutes until the late comers finally grace us with their presence. We make it back to Edinburgh roughly on time and Kate and I celebrate by heading to the pub for dinner and drinks. Tomorrow we have a city to explore.
We wake up Saturday the 22nd to no rain. Finally. We have most of the day to ourselves and so we set off to explore the city, because we haven't seen much of it yet. Our hostel is right off the Royal Mile, but we decide to take a bus tour of the city to start. It takes us around and is interesting to know what all the monuments/buildings are for. Then we set out on foot to walk down to Holyrood Palace at the end of the mile. It's a bit of a walk, but it's downhill and the return walk is the killer. But there's shops enough for distraction and we make it back to the hostel early afternoon. We decide to take a taxi to Thrums hotel, where we'll be staying the next two nights. This is part of our reason for being in Scotland, and the next week is going to be an adventure of epic (sorry) magnitude. There's no one around the hotel when we check in, but soon enough the rest of the gang begins to trickle in. We meet our roomies (Rachel and Jana who are such dears!) and then everyone else. Finally we set off for dinner (back on the Mile) and us young ones decide to walk. Hey, we've already done it twice today! Dinner is at Deacon Brodie's, one of Edinburgh's famous pubs. It's packed solid (rugby weekend and all that), which just means there are that many more people to watch us be certifiable geeks. But dinner is excellent and everyone, including the KnittedHobbits have a blast. And our very own piper (I had an SGA moment, but it was brief). We stumble back to the hotel at some point.
Sunday is exploring day for most of the group since they only arrive the day before. But Kate and I have done it, and so with Rachel in tow we set off to climb Arthur's Seat. We make it 1/3 of the way up before it begins to rain, the rocks/grass get so slippery we can barely keep going and finally I nearly get blown over the cliff by a gust of wind. It's suicide, and we all know it, so back down (carefully) we head. Instead we walk up the Mile and try a few more of the shops (fudge! and scarves!). We meet the other group who are still doing their thing. When dinner approaches we decide to head back to the hotel to see what everyone is up to. Which seems to be nothing, so Rachel and I head up the road for Italian, which turns out to be a good choice. It's the best dinner I've had since I left Italy.
Our room is up early, but it's after eleven before the bus pulls out of the parking lot. Kate and I have been named navigators (maybe not the brightest idea), but we only get Adi lost once in the first hour. We make it out of the city and onto the Bridge and then we're home free (just follow the highway!). We decide to stop in Pitlochry for lunch, as Kate and I both know it now, and it's a good meeting place. Kate goes off to get lunch for us both while I play tour guide to the group. Having delivered them to the main street and pointed out the good eating, I get sidetracked by a candy store and then by a clothing store. I still make it back to the bus in 30 minutes. Go me! (Sorry).
It's still a long way to go. We make it to Inverness and stop for food for the week. And gas. And then we plow on. We finally catch up to Lesley, Liza and the cars 8 miles south of Culrain at a lookout point. It's so beautiful, even with the mountains lost in the cloud. But we're almost there and dinner awaits (which we make!). The castle is pretty quiet, at least tonight, and we get a chance to explore without lots of people. We also get to hear the ghost stories (oh yes). None of us sleep particularly well, and at least three of us are up half the night needing to go to the bathroom but not willing to venture out into the, apparently, very haunted hallway.
Tuesday is a day off. For which we are all grateful. Kate and I have been on the go since Skye and we need the break. The Hobbits have made up a very nasty teasure hunt, and Kate, Rachel, Jana and I spend the better part of the day trying to figure out the clues. All of us are a little too fond of winning. :D We finally give up mid-afternoon with two more clues to go and just veg in the library. Our grand plans for walking one of the river plans just seems a little too grand.
We're ready to go Wednesday though, with a trip down to Inverness. We didn't have time to stop and see anything on the way up, and so off we set to investigate the mystery of Loch Ness. We stop at Urquhart Castle, a pretty much completely ruined stronghold that precides over the murky waters of Ness. Amazingly it's raining. Fancy that. A few of us opt out of the castle (between the dozen or so Kate and I have seen in the last week and the price of admission, it's just not worth it). After the cold tourists congregate back at the bus it's decided to nix the swim trip in Loch Ness (and I wore my bathing suit and everything!) and spend the afternoon in Inverness. We find a tea shop and hunker down for an hour. Then it's back to the castle (hey, we did it in 45 minutes this time!) for dinner. We haven't done much, but somehow I'm still exhausted.
Kate wakes up with her back killing her, and so decides to stay behind. (You didn't miss that much!) Today is explore the surrounding area day. Once around the other side of the river we stop to take a picture (or twelve, actually) of Carbisdale Castle (Europe's grandest hostel...I'm not kidding). Jana and I clamber up on top of the van to try to get a clear shot, which works, but the getting down part sucks. Gravity helps everything; except when it doesn't. (Again, sorry, couldn't resist). We stop at a ruined mill on the way, a good photo-op for pretty much everyone. Next up is a Harrod's...in the middle of northern Scotland. Wonders never cease. There's also a beautiful waterfall. :D And a low ropes course that kind of kills both Rachel and I, but the KnittedHobbits do quite well (we've stolen them for the day, figuring, of course, that waterfalls aren't enough to keep their attention). It's already after lunch, and we have to be back at the castle for get ready for tonight, but we continue on to the North Sea. There's hardly anyone there, and the tide is in, so it's a short walk to the water, which is freezing, of course. But we scamper among the rocks and pools and shell hunt. The air is warm, and the sun is kind of out and it's amazing here. I don't think I've ever seen anything more beautiful. Finally we make it back to the bus (we're already massively late) and plow back to the hostel.
Tonight is ceilidh night. And so we scramble around to get dressed (costumes!) and ready for dinner. There is a German youth orchestra staying over night at the hostel, and the organizer has offered Lesley and Liza a concert. How can we resist? The orchestra plays for nearly an hour, and it's so wonderful to listen to from 5 feet away. They are quite an amazing group of teenagers. And then it's ceilidh time. It's worked out perfectly, because now there's 50 young ones to dance and it makes everything more fun. Kate and I are really the only ones that know all the dances, and so we lead the way. I haven't had that much fun in awhile.
During intermission, Lesley and Liza announce that we've won the treasure hunt (go us!) and then we do a prize draw. I get a farthing coin dating back to 1863! A great addition to my ever growing coin collection. And also small enough I can pack in my luggage. :D Finally we retire to the library. I've bought a bottle of whisky as a gift and Kate and I teach the group how to properly toast and drink and then we pass the bottle around. A true gathering.
Well, Friday is my travel day. I head out early, and say my farewells (for those of you I missed, sorry! I loved meeting you ALL). My train is late leaving. Which is a bad sign in this country. I am not at all suprised when we are delayed again outside of Inverness. I therefore miss my flight (like I would have caught it anyways) and am screwed. I decide to head back to Edinburgh for the night. There's no reason to stay in Inverness, and I'm more likely to be able to get back to Exeter tomorrow if I leave from the big city. Of course, it's rugby weekend (again) and so every hostel in the city is booked. So I end up back at Thrums, which turns out to be a good choice, because for the first time in 3 weeks I have my OWN ROOM. I go back to the Italian place for dinner and am happily entertained by the waiters for a few hours. Then by the free wireless internet at the hotel. And then by my bed.
I am up early for breakfast and to catch a train out. I could fly, but that's a whole new set of complications at this point. It's a 9 hour train ride from Edinburgh to Exeter, and I make it in 10. Which means it's late, and dark (but thankfully dry and warm). The taxi drops me off at the res office. I collect my key easily enough, but then have to make a 15 minute hike UPHILL with my luggage to get to my res. Then go back to the office, collect my welcome pack and make another 15 minute hike UPHILL to my res. And there are stairs. And I think I nearly passed out at some point. But I make it, and it's great. And my internet connection works. I email home, make my bed, and go to sleep.
It's a crappy end to a fantastic trip. I can't wait to see Scotland again. I had an amazing time touring with Kate (who's a great traveller) and meeting everyone at the Moot. Congrats to all of you who flew over from the States, because I know how hellish that flight can be, and how unnerving it is to travel overseas the first time (I still remember Italy 7 years ago...I was terrified). I'm glad you all made it.
We'll, it's now been a week since I arrived in Exeter, and I'm settled in nicely. Have even gotten used to the 30 minute walk for groceries. I love this town and this country, and I am so happy I made the choice to settle here. I really look forward to the years to come, and the chance to explore this island from top to bottom (as soon as I find the time), and Ireland as well.
Slainte!
Kate (bless her heart) has recommended MacBackpackers because she did it eight years ago with her sister and loved it. It's a very well organized company that does all different length tours around Scotland. We were booked on the Jump on/Jump off tour. It allows you to get off at any of the hostel stops and stay for as long as you want. It's also bloody cheap. We had already decided (mostly because it was all the time we had) to do 5 days. One days out to Skye, two nights on Skye, and then two days back to Edinburgh.
Day One: First stop is a gorgeous town called Dunkeld. It's small and picturesque and boasts a huge abbey that is half still in use and half ruined. Which is kinda of awesome. It also has a great bakery, apparently. Next up is the requisite distillery stop. This one is Edradour, the smallest (legal) distillery in Scotland. The tour comes complete with whisky tasting (which I never pass up). It's freezing cold and raining, and it's only mid-September, but somehow it doesn't dampen our spirits. On the way to lunch Doug, who is our bus driver, Scottish, and hilariously vulgar, breaks open the bottle of whisky he's bought. Apparently being able to drive, drink, and toast is something bred into the Scottish. We pass the bottle around in the tradition of the clan gatherings of old. It's nice and warming after a cold morning.
We stop for lunch in Pitlochry. It's a small town about half-way to Inverness, and it's beautiful. It also has an amazing fish & chips shop off the main street (not the one on the main street). MacBackpackers owns a hostel here and we drop off and pick up a few people for the next leg.
Then we are off to Ruthven Barracks. An 18th century ruined "fortress" which is pretty much standing except for it's roof. It's high above the plain below (which means walking up) and it's raining, but on our way back down there's a rainbow arching up from nearby and it makes for great pictures. Just before we hit Inverness we stop at Culloden. It's nearly pouring and it is freezing, but I make it half-way out the path anyways. It's not much to look at with low clouds, but even blind you would still be able to feel the place. It's like walking into any other graveyard, except my ancestors died on this field. I can't help but wonder if I would have been willing to do the same, 300 years ago.
We bypass Inverness and head down the south shore of Loch Ness. Apparently, it's always raining here (which could be true, but I know it's not). The water hovers barely above freezing, and I almost work up the courage to jump in. At least I get my feet wet. But four others on the tour are ready and mostly willing. The get the rest of the whisky afterwards.
Tonight we stop in Inverness. Everyone pretty much scatters their own way, but Doug leads a few of us off to a pub for dinner and then on to Blackfriers (apparently the stop to be) for a ceilidh. The pub is small, and there's a lot of people. It takes a bit of coaching, but soon there are TOO many people up dancing. Kate's eager, but it takes quite a bit of encouragement before I get up to dance, and of course I pick the hardest one to do. Still, ceilidhs are an experience not to be missed in Scotland. It won't be our last on the trip.
Day Two: Next morning we're up early and on our way. We stop at Rogie Falls, but don't see any salmon leaping. But the spot is beautiful. The next is Loch Carron, on a high lookout. The clouds are low, so it's not good for pictures, but it's remote and peaceful and beautiful. We make it to the town of Kyleakin on Skye in time for lunch. The town consists mostly of about 5 hostels, three pubs and a smattering of houses. It also boasts the ruins of a castle (closer to a tower). Kate and I brave the rain (sleet) and the rising tide to venture along the very unmarked trail out to the ruins. It's hellish going, the trail disappears and reappears and finally, at the base of the hill the tower stands on, vanishes completely. Instead we clamber over wet rocks and finally make it to the top. It's a great view, even with (or because of) the dark clouds. Finally the risk of the rising tide cutting off our escape sends us scrambling back down. We return to town wet, but unscathed. We decide to treat ourselves to the pub tonight and then retire to an early bed.
Day Three: Today is our full day on Skye. We plan to head up to the northern ends, but when we wake up it's pouring rain and neither of us has an ambition. We spend the day reading, writing and drinking cocoa. Late that afternoon the other hostel guests begin to trickle in. Apparently a windmill feel off a truck 8 miles north of Kyleakin early in the morning and the road has been closed all day. There was no way north without massive delays. It's a good thing we didn't try. But tonight there's a ceilidh at the pub, and so off we trot for drinks and dancing. Kate and I are both rested, and since no one else seems eager to start we set off to encourage the tourists. It's fun as hell, and we dance until we can't any longer.
I think I've fallen in love with this island and can't wait to come back. It's so quiet and peaceful and relaxing. No need to be anywhere or do anything, even the locals take it slow. It's a nice change.
Day Four: Up late, thankfully, we don't leave till after lunch. We have a new bus driver for this leg of the journey. His name is Michael and he's wearing a kilt. Really, he looks like a young Mel Gibson and talks like one too. Our first stop is Eilean Donan Castle. I've been waiting years to see this place. It's the current home of the MacRae's (and the ancestral one too) and the family still spends it's holidays here. It's also the perfect castle, full of hidden chambers and narrow winding staircases. Really, it's awesome. It also makes for great photos (which I have quite a few of).
We stop at Fort William to drop off/pick up again. The Fort (as the Scots call it, because they refuse to remember it was named after William of Orange) is the centre for outdoor activities. From here you can climb Ben Nevis and do pretty much anything outdoorsy. I so have to come back and spend a week here.
Our last stop of the day is Glencoe. The sun is setting and the clouds are low, but there's still enough light to admire the place. Glencoe is one of the most gorgeous sites in Scotland, probably in the world. And even in the pouring rain it's magical. Just before we leave a rainbow arches across the sky. It ends only a few hundred feet from where we stand. Amazing; I've never been this close to a rainbow.
We stop for the night in Oban. It's a seaside/harbour town with a lot to offer. You could spend a week here an never be bored. It also has a dive centre which means I will certainly be back. We walk downtown and look for a place to eat and finally settle on pizza. But the common room is lively and there's plenty of people to talk to. It's a great hostel, even if pretty much everything is upstairs.
Day Five: Last day. Today is castle/kirk/monument viewing. We stop firstly at St Conan's. This church was constructed over the better part of 30 years by ONE MAN for his mother. It's a thing of architectural beauty for sure, and a marvel to think about how it was built. We make a photo stop at Kilchurn church, one of the Campbell castles. It lies in ruins (thankfully) now. But our next stop is the newish Campbell seat, which is huge and ugly and we only browse through the gift shop before leaving.
On our way back to Edinburgh we stop at Stirling. It's a thriving town, and though we miss the castle, we do stop at the Wallace monument. It's a steep (and long) climb up the hill, but from the top you can see all of town, including the castle. Exhausted we take the free bus down and then sit around for 45 minutes until the late comers finally grace us with their presence. We make it back to Edinburgh roughly on time and Kate and I celebrate by heading to the pub for dinner and drinks. Tomorrow we have a city to explore.
We wake up Saturday the 22nd to no rain. Finally. We have most of the day to ourselves and so we set off to explore the city, because we haven't seen much of it yet. Our hostel is right off the Royal Mile, but we decide to take a bus tour of the city to start. It takes us around and is interesting to know what all the monuments/buildings are for. Then we set out on foot to walk down to Holyrood Palace at the end of the mile. It's a bit of a walk, but it's downhill and the return walk is the killer. But there's shops enough for distraction and we make it back to the hostel early afternoon. We decide to take a taxi to Thrums hotel, where we'll be staying the next two nights. This is part of our reason for being in Scotland, and the next week is going to be an adventure of epic (sorry) magnitude. There's no one around the hotel when we check in, but soon enough the rest of the gang begins to trickle in. We meet our roomies (Rachel and Jana who are such dears!) and then everyone else. Finally we set off for dinner (back on the Mile) and us young ones decide to walk. Hey, we've already done it twice today! Dinner is at Deacon Brodie's, one of Edinburgh's famous pubs. It's packed solid (rugby weekend and all that), which just means there are that many more people to watch us be certifiable geeks. But dinner is excellent and everyone, including the KnittedHobbits have a blast. And our very own piper (I had an SGA moment, but it was brief). We stumble back to the hotel at some point.
Sunday is exploring day for most of the group since they only arrive the day before. But Kate and I have done it, and so with Rachel in tow we set off to climb Arthur's Seat. We make it 1/3 of the way up before it begins to rain, the rocks/grass get so slippery we can barely keep going and finally I nearly get blown over the cliff by a gust of wind. It's suicide, and we all know it, so back down (carefully) we head. Instead we walk up the Mile and try a few more of the shops (fudge! and scarves!). We meet the other group who are still doing their thing. When dinner approaches we decide to head back to the hotel to see what everyone is up to. Which seems to be nothing, so Rachel and I head up the road for Italian, which turns out to be a good choice. It's the best dinner I've had since I left Italy.
Our room is up early, but it's after eleven before the bus pulls out of the parking lot. Kate and I have been named navigators (maybe not the brightest idea), but we only get Adi lost once in the first hour. We make it out of the city and onto the Bridge and then we're home free (just follow the highway!). We decide to stop in Pitlochry for lunch, as Kate and I both know it now, and it's a good meeting place. Kate goes off to get lunch for us both while I play tour guide to the group. Having delivered them to the main street and pointed out the good eating, I get sidetracked by a candy store and then by a clothing store. I still make it back to the bus in 30 minutes. Go me! (Sorry).
It's still a long way to go. We make it to Inverness and stop for food for the week. And gas. And then we plow on. We finally catch up to Lesley, Liza and the cars 8 miles south of Culrain at a lookout point. It's so beautiful, even with the mountains lost in the cloud. But we're almost there and dinner awaits (which we make!). The castle is pretty quiet, at least tonight, and we get a chance to explore without lots of people. We also get to hear the ghost stories (oh yes). None of us sleep particularly well, and at least three of us are up half the night needing to go to the bathroom but not willing to venture out into the, apparently, very haunted hallway.
Tuesday is a day off. For which we are all grateful. Kate and I have been on the go since Skye and we need the break. The Hobbits have made up a very nasty teasure hunt, and Kate, Rachel, Jana and I spend the better part of the day trying to figure out the clues. All of us are a little too fond of winning. :D We finally give up mid-afternoon with two more clues to go and just veg in the library. Our grand plans for walking one of the river plans just seems a little too grand.
We're ready to go Wednesday though, with a trip down to Inverness. We didn't have time to stop and see anything on the way up, and so off we set to investigate the mystery of Loch Ness. We stop at Urquhart Castle, a pretty much completely ruined stronghold that precides over the murky waters of Ness. Amazingly it's raining. Fancy that. A few of us opt out of the castle (between the dozen or so Kate and I have seen in the last week and the price of admission, it's just not worth it). After the cold tourists congregate back at the bus it's decided to nix the swim trip in Loch Ness (and I wore my bathing suit and everything!) and spend the afternoon in Inverness. We find a tea shop and hunker down for an hour. Then it's back to the castle (hey, we did it in 45 minutes this time!) for dinner. We haven't done much, but somehow I'm still exhausted.
Kate wakes up with her back killing her, and so decides to stay behind. (You didn't miss that much!) Today is explore the surrounding area day. Once around the other side of the river we stop to take a picture (or twelve, actually) of Carbisdale Castle (Europe's grandest hostel...I'm not kidding). Jana and I clamber up on top of the van to try to get a clear shot, which works, but the getting down part sucks. Gravity helps everything; except when it doesn't. (Again, sorry, couldn't resist). We stop at a ruined mill on the way, a good photo-op for pretty much everyone. Next up is a Harrod's...in the middle of northern Scotland. Wonders never cease. There's also a beautiful waterfall. :D And a low ropes course that kind of kills both Rachel and I, but the KnittedHobbits do quite well (we've stolen them for the day, figuring, of course, that waterfalls aren't enough to keep their attention). It's already after lunch, and we have to be back at the castle for get ready for tonight, but we continue on to the North Sea. There's hardly anyone there, and the tide is in, so it's a short walk to the water, which is freezing, of course. But we scamper among the rocks and pools and shell hunt. The air is warm, and the sun is kind of out and it's amazing here. I don't think I've ever seen anything more beautiful. Finally we make it back to the bus (we're already massively late) and plow back to the hostel.
Tonight is ceilidh night. And so we scramble around to get dressed (costumes!) and ready for dinner. There is a German youth orchestra staying over night at the hostel, and the organizer has offered Lesley and Liza a concert. How can we resist? The orchestra plays for nearly an hour, and it's so wonderful to listen to from 5 feet away. They are quite an amazing group of teenagers. And then it's ceilidh time. It's worked out perfectly, because now there's 50 young ones to dance and it makes everything more fun. Kate and I are really the only ones that know all the dances, and so we lead the way. I haven't had that much fun in awhile.
During intermission, Lesley and Liza announce that we've won the treasure hunt (go us!) and then we do a prize draw. I get a farthing coin dating back to 1863! A great addition to my ever growing coin collection. And also small enough I can pack in my luggage. :D Finally we retire to the library. I've bought a bottle of whisky as a gift and Kate and I teach the group how to properly toast and drink and then we pass the bottle around. A true gathering.
Well, Friday is my travel day. I head out early, and say my farewells (for those of you I missed, sorry! I loved meeting you ALL). My train is late leaving. Which is a bad sign in this country. I am not at all suprised when we are delayed again outside of Inverness. I therefore miss my flight (like I would have caught it anyways) and am screwed. I decide to head back to Edinburgh for the night. There's no reason to stay in Inverness, and I'm more likely to be able to get back to Exeter tomorrow if I leave from the big city. Of course, it's rugby weekend (again) and so every hostel in the city is booked. So I end up back at Thrums, which turns out to be a good choice, because for the first time in 3 weeks I have my OWN ROOM. I go back to the Italian place for dinner and am happily entertained by the waiters for a few hours. Then by the free wireless internet at the hotel. And then by my bed.
I am up early for breakfast and to catch a train out. I could fly, but that's a whole new set of complications at this point. It's a 9 hour train ride from Edinburgh to Exeter, and I make it in 10. Which means it's late, and dark (but thankfully dry and warm). The taxi drops me off at the res office. I collect my key easily enough, but then have to make a 15 minute hike UPHILL with my luggage to get to my res. Then go back to the office, collect my welcome pack and make another 15 minute hike UPHILL to my res. And there are stairs. And I think I nearly passed out at some point. But I make it, and it's great. And my internet connection works. I email home, make my bed, and go to sleep.
It's a crappy end to a fantastic trip. I can't wait to see Scotland again. I had an amazing time touring with Kate (who's a great traveller) and meeting everyone at the Moot. Congrats to all of you who flew over from the States, because I know how hellish that flight can be, and how unnerving it is to travel overseas the first time (I still remember Italy 7 years ago...I was terrified). I'm glad you all made it.
We'll, it's now been a week since I arrived in Exeter, and I'm settled in nicely. Have even gotten used to the 30 minute walk for groceries. I love this town and this country, and I am so happy I made the choice to settle here. I really look forward to the years to come, and the chance to explore this island from top to bottom (as soon as I find the time), and Ireland as well.
Slainte!
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Date: 2007-10-07 10:42 pm (UTC)I was so impressed with you and Kate--you are both so confident and amazingly poised for your ages! I would never have had the nerve to do the kinds of things you all did when I was your age.
I'm very sorry I didn't get down in time to say good-bye to you when you left--consider these virtual hugs from me (((((hugs))))) as my farewell.
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Date: 2007-10-08 09:08 am (UTC)Thanks for the compliments. For me, it's partly a product of the family I grew up in and partly just having travelled quite a bit. It's still nice to hear it from others though!
Cheers.
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Date: 2007-10-09 08:40 am (UTC)Re: part 2
Date: 2007-10-09 05:03 pm (UTC)Thanks for going to the effort to type up.
Re: part 2
Date: 2007-10-10 08:56 am (UTC)I'll pass it along to Kate, if she hasn't already seen it on my LJ.
Thanks.
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Date: 2007-10-19 06:07 pm (UTC)I'm back in Peterborough for a long weekend, so I finally have some net time. I got your postcard the other day - thanks for making me smile. I'm currently in the process of getting a letter to you (I decided to put in some trip diary, and it's now *rather* long), and will hopefully be posting it on monday.
How is uni going? I sent you an email the other day when I was online very very briefly, but I think it was returned to sender.
I miss you guys!
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Date: 2007-10-19 06:33 pm (UTC)Uni is going fantastically. Which means I'm waiting for it to all go to shit. My luck has never been particularly good. And I'm getting used to the hills and the walking (even though my knee has decided to permanently hate me) and the weather has been perfect. Only one day of rain in the last ten!
I miss you too.
ailiswindemere@hotmail.com, if by chance that isn't what you have.